Monday, April 04, 2011

Tofino and Ucluelet

Well, we had a wonderful weekend in Ucluelet and Tofino: absolutely incredible coastal scenery and no tourists to compete with. Even the drive between Port Alberni and the Ucluelet/Tofino junction was breath-taking: snow covered peaks hemming you in, and along the side of the road, a carpet of snow studded with paper-white barked birches and scarlet tipped bare shrubs with a blue green river alternately rushing and meandering over beds of smooth, gray rocks! Our time in Ucluelet reminded me of how much I love fog-soaked pine trees, the varied hues of gray stone upon ocean upon sky, and the sound of the ocean lulling me to sleep. We couldn't have asked for a better place to stay than the place I found online: the cabins. Simple but warm wood interiors, a kitchen to prepare meals in, a tiny electric fireplace, a giant two person soaker tub, and stairs right down to Terrace Beach and part of the Wild Pacific Trail! We even barbequed a salmon once the furious winds died down a bit!

  

 Salmon a la West Coast

One salmon fillet (deboned, skin on one side)
Maple syrup
Garlic
Cracked black pepper
Salt

Chop or mince about 3-5 cloves of garlic depending on the size of your fillet and your affinity for the taste of garlic. Put the salmon in a pan and pour over enough maple syrup to marinate the fish. Sprinkle the garlic on top of the fillet with fresh cracked black pepper and salt to taste. Let sit for 30 min. Barbeque on a sheet of foil, and flip the fish once. Serve when done.


Of the food we did not prepare ourselves, we ended up eating at Goats on the Roof Old Country Market,   Norwoods, and Wildside Grill.

Much to my child-like disappointment, the goats were not on the roof in Coombes, perhaps because it was still winter so the goats were hanging out in the tree house in the back. The Market was incredible: the many colored lanterns decorating the ceiling, the food on the shelves, the childrens' toys, and the kitchen wares. It has both a cafe and restaurant. From the cafe, I think I would stick with the desserts after trying a selection of the flatbreads and pizzas. We tried a "beesting" - which omg - a danish cut in half and filled with bavarian cream, then slathered on top with a caramel sauce and almonds?! Proceed with caution: at least one other person to help and a strong americano to go with it.  I would have gone back for seconds if I could have fit them.
 

 Norwoods is an upscale restaurant for the area, Pacific-northwest style of cuisine, locally made ingredients and some emphasis on sustainable seafood. The interior is cozy and intimate with maybe 8 - 9 tables and the bar. The kitchen is totally exposed, which I love. Watching the chefs cook and plate is an additional perk! Very attentive service. The food was sadly a mix of ups and downs. We had a seafood trio appetizer : dungeness crab chowder, tempura prawns, and grilled octopus and Dad had the mussels. The mussel broth was superb - spicy, tomato broth richness. Of the trio, the grilled octopus blew us all away.




The octopus was topped with watercress and served with truffle oil pureed potatoes and a sweet chili sauce. The combo was perfect in every way, and never having had octopus before, I am now a convert. The mains were hit and miss - the braised lamb shank was sous-vided and served with sauteed spinach, mushrooms and a potato cake. Well-received by two of our table. The other two went with the seared albacore tuna, tempura prawns, ponzu sauce, noodles and bok choi. Unfortunately the best part of that dish was the bok choi and prawns. The tuna, although seared, was mostly cold, which I have never experienced before with a fish dish, and the breading on the outside was not crisped at all. It was also slightly fishy tasting. They were kind enough to try a second time and completely remade the dish, managed the get the breading crispy but the tuna was still mysteriously cold and slightly fish tasting.  This dish swam in ponzu sauce, and there were so many noodles which  while great with the sauce and bok choi were too much texture contrast for what should have been a delicate fish. Chambar has ruined me in terms of restaurant fish experience: every single piece of fish I have had there is perfectly cooked and fresh-tasting, paired with amazing sides.

Dessert was a thankful redemption and provided new inspiration for my next cheesecake creation: goat cheese cheese-cake topped with poached sour cherries and a crust of hazelnut crumble. The crust was spectacular - the roasted hazelnut flavor paired so well with the goat cheese of the cheesecake and the crumble was much lighter and less buttery tasting than a traditional graham cracker crust. Must try!

Wildside Grill located off the highway to Tofino and nestled in a little enclave of surf shops was the highlight of my eating out trip. I had been hoping to compare its fish tacos to those of Tacofino which was sadly closed due to it being low tourist season. But these tacos did not disappoint! $13 for 3 corn tortillas filled with chipotle mayo, guacamole, fresh salsa, cilantro, and a tempura battered piece of cod. They were mostly inhaled :)  My one tiny complaint is that the chipotle mayo was a little excessive and while I loved all the veggies/condiments, it would have been nice to taste a bit more fish! Their fish and chips were also delightful - wonderfully crunchy panko exterior on the cod, perfectly salted thick chips, lots of tartar sauce and cole slaw. The cole slaw got points for using julienned green apple, but still tasted too much of mayonaisse for my liking. I am completely in the vinegar slaw camp.The hilarious part was sitting outside eating fish & chips and fish tacos, while dressed in fleece, rain jackets, hiking boots, and toques! That's some northwest spring time for you!

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